On being stuck between a rock and a hard place. — Gar Firdaus bar-rue zamin ast, hami asto, hamin asto, hamin ast. (if there is heaven on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here). - Jahangir, the Mughal emperor, when he visited Kashmir in the 17th century. Nestled between the snow-capped mountains, Kashmir is a sight to behold…